![\"chainsaw](\"https:\/\/www.titantec.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/chainsaw-tree-felling.webp\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nTree felling takes specific protective gear and tools to keep you safe. You also need to know the legal rules before you start, or you could get fined.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Recommended Protective Gear<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nA full chainsaw helmet with a face shield and hearing protection is a must. Falling branches cause a lot of injuries, so don\u2019t skip this.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Work gloves keep your hands safe from cuts and blisters. Steel-toed boots protect your feet from dropped tools or a moving chainsaw.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Kevlar chaps are worth every penny. They can stop a spinning chainsaw blade in a split second. Safety glasses or a face shield protect your eyes from flying wood chips.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
High-visibility clothing makes sure others can see you while you\u2019re working.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Chainsaw Safety Fundamentals<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nAlways sharpen the blade<\/a> before you start. A sharp chain cuts cleaner and helps prevent kickback.<\/p>\n\n\n\nCheck chain tension, bar oil, and safety features before you fire up the saw. The chain brake needs to work every single time. That\u2019s what stops the chain instantly if there\u2019s kickback.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Hold the saw with both hands. Stand on solid, cleared ground. Never cut above your shoulders or from an awkward position.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Add fuel only when the engine is cool and shut off.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Checking for Permits and Legal Considerations<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nMany places require permits to cut down trees\u2014even on your own land. Call your local permit office or building authority and ask what\u2019s needed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Some trees are protected species. You can\u2019t remove them without special permission, even if they\u2019re on your property. Local forestry departments keep lists of these trees and size limits.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
If the tree is on a property line, you\u2019ll need your neighbor\u2019s okay. Trees on the boundary are usually shared.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
If there are power lines nearby, call the utility company first. They\u2019ll often check the situation and sometimes remove the tree for you if it\u2019s near electrical lines.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Assessing the Tree and Planning the Felling Zone<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n![\"chainsaw](\"https:\/\/www.titantec.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/chainsaw-tree-felling1.webp\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nLook at the tree and the area around it before you cut. This step helps you avoid accidents and makes sure the tree falls where you want.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Evaluating Tree Condition and Lean<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nWalk all the way around the tree. Look for cracks, holes, or dead branches that could break off.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Weak spots make the tree unpredictable.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Figure out which way the tree leans. Stand back and check from a few angles. Trees that lean forward, backward, or sideways need different cutting approaches.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Weight matters too. If one side has more branches, the tree will probably fall that way\u2014even if the trunk doesn\u2019t lean much.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Dead or dying trees need extra caution. They might be hollow inside. Tap the trunk with a mallet to check for hollow spots.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Identifying Hazards and Obstacles<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nClear the felling zone of anything that could get damaged or cause injury. Make sure this area is at least twice as wide as the tree is tall.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Overhead hazards<\/strong> like power lines<\/a> are the most dangerous. Always assume lines are live until you know for sure. Watch for dead branches, insect nests, and vines too.<\/p>\n\n\n\nOn the ground<\/strong>, move or protect:<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n- Patio furniture<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Fences and other structures<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Nearby trees or shrubs<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Rocks and old stumps<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Pay attention to the ground itself. Slopes change how a tree falls. Wet soil can make roots give way suddenly. If you\u2019re working on a slope, it\u2019s harder and more tiring.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
If there\u2019s poison ivy on the trunk, wear extra protection. Mark old wells, pipes, or hidden junk so you don\u2019t trip or hit them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Marking Escape Routes and Clear Paths<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nPlan your escape route before you start. Most felling accidents happen right as the tree begins to move\u2014and usually within just a few feet of the stump.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Angle your escape path about 45 degrees away from the fall direction. Pick the side with better footing or more space.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
To prep the escape route:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n- Remove branches and anything you could trip on<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Clear a path at least 15 feet long<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Walk it to check for bad footing<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Think about uphill or downhill movement<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Make sure the path is totally clear before you cut. If the ground\u2019s icy, muddy, or sketchy, give yourself extra time. Practice walking the route to spot any issues you might have missed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Making Cuts: Techniques for Controlled Felling<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n![\"chainsaw](\"https:\/\/www.titantec.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/chainsaw-tree-felling4.webp\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nO three main cuts<\/a> work together to guide the tree\u2019s fall. The notch cut<\/a> points the tree, the back cut<\/a> releases it, and felling wedges<\/a> help if you need more control.<\/p>\n\n\n\nHow to Plan the Notch Cut<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nThe notch decides which way the tree falls. Cut the notch on the side facing where you want it to land.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Set the notch at a comfortable height, usually between your waist and shoulders. That makes it easier to work safely. Cut about a third of the way through the trunk.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
There are two main notch styles:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n- Open-face notch<\/strong>: 70-90 degree angle<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Conventional notch<\/strong>: 45-degree angle and a flat cut<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
The open-face notch gives you more control. It keeps the hinge<\/a> working longer as the tree falls. Point the notch right at your target spot.<\/p>\n\n\n\nCutting the Notch Properly<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nThe notch has two cuts that need to meet just right. The top cut angles down at 45 degrees (or steeper for open-face). The bottom cut goes straight in, horizontal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Make the angled cut first, then the horizontal cut. If you do it right, you\u2019ll pull out a wedge-shaped chunk in one piece.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
If the wedge doesn\u2019t come out easily, your cuts aren\u2019t lined up and you\u2019ll need to adjust.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Using Felling Wedges Effectively<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nFelling wedges keep the tree from pinching your saw and help guide the fall.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Slip wedges into the back cut once it\u2019s deep enough to hold them. Plastic wedges are best\u2014they won\u2019t wreck your chain if you hit them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How to use wedges:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n- Start the back cut<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Insert wedges when the cut is 2-3 inches deep<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Tap them in gently to keep pressure<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Drive them deeper as you go<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
For bigger trees, use more than one wedge. Space them out along the back cut for even pressure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Making the Back Cut and Felling Cut<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nThe back cut is what releases the tree. Make this cut on the side opposite the notch, about 2 inches higher than the notch\u2019s bottom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Leave a strip of wood between the back cut and the notch. That\u2019s your hinge\u2014it should be about 10% of the tree\u2019s diameter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Cut straight through, parallel to the bottom of the notch. Don\u2019t cut all the way through\u2014the hinge needs to stay intact.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Safety tips:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n- Keep the back cut level<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Stop before you reach the hinge<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Watch for the tree to start moving<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- As soon as it moves, use your escape route<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
When the tree starts to fall, shut off the saw and get out of there\u2014quickly but carefully.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Post-Felling Cleanup and Branch Removal<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nOnce the tree\u2019s down, you need to deal with the branches and trunk. A lot of injuries happen at this stage, mostly because of tension in the wood.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Cutting and Removing Branches<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nStart at the base and work your way to the top. This releases tension gradually. If you\u2019re on a slope, stand on the uphill side.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Branch removal steps:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n- Cut small branches at the base first<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Move on to medium branches<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Finish with the big limbs near the top<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Drag cut branches out of your way<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Watch out for branches under tension. They can whip back when cut. For really big limbs, try offset cutting<\/a>: cut down about two-thirds, then make a second cut from underneath, one inch past the first.<\/p>\n\n\n\nSafe Limbing and Bucking Practices<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nBucking<\/a> is cutting the trunk into smaller pieces. How you do this depends on the size and weight of each section.<\/p>\n\n\n\nFor small trunks, just cut straight through from the top. For bigger pieces, use offset cuts<\/a>: cut two-thirds down from the top, then finish from underneath, offset by an inch. This keeps your saw from getting pinched.<\/p>\n\n\n\nKeep your chain sharp and tight. Use the chain brake when moving between cuts. Don\u2019t ever cut<\/a> with the tip of the bar\u2014it\u2019s a major kickback risk.<\/p>\n\n\n\nStack cut wood somewhere dry and airy so it doesn\u2019t rot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Troubleshooting and When to Call a Professional<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nSome trees are just too risky for DIY. If a tree leans toward a house, has lots of rot, or stands near power lines, it\u2019s time to call in a professional.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Recognizing Dangerous Situations<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nSeveral warning signs show when a tree removal job needs a pro. If a tree leans more than 15 degrees toward a building, driveway, or utility line, homeowners shouldn’t try to handle it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Power lines within 10 feet of a tree create real electrocution risks. Only licensed pros with the right gear should tackle those situations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Dead or diseased trees can act in unpredictable ways when you try to cut them down. Sometimes the wood just crumbles or splits, so you can’t control where it falls<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\nTrees with more than one trunk or big, heavy branches that hang over things are best left to experts. Strong winds, rain, or storms only make things more dangerous.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
If weather’s bad, it’s smarter to wait. Trees taller than 15 feet or wider than a foot across usually need pro equipment and experience.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Dealing With Large or Compromised Trees<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nBig trees need special rigging and cranes most people don’t have. Arborists use ropes and pulleys to lower sections safely and protect what’s nearby.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
If a tree has a hollow trunk, fungus, or big cracks, let an expert check it out before doing anything. These weak spots<\/a> make the tree’s behavior hard to predict.<\/p>\n\n\n\nSometimes rot hides inside where you can’t see it. Pros know how to spot that.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
When trees get tangled up with others or lean in weird ways, you have to take them down piece by piece from the top. This method, called sectional felling<\/a>, needs climbing gear<\/a> and real know-how.<\/p>\n\n\n\nIf there’s a risk to people or property, paying for pro tree removal just makes sense.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
FAQs<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nWhat safety gear should you wear before cutting down a tree?<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nWear a helmet with a face shield to protect your head and face from falling branches<\/a> and flying debris. Ear protection keeps your hearing safe from the chainsaw’s noise.<\/p>\n\n\n\nChainsaw chaps help guard your legs if the chain slips. Steel-toed boots shield your feet and help you keep your balance on rough ground.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Gloves give you better grip and keep your hands safe from splinters and cuts. Keep all this gear on from the first cut to the end of cleanup<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\nHow do you plan the fall direction and establish escape routes?<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nLook at the tree’s lean and how its weight is spread out. Pick a landing spot with no buildings, wires, or other trees in the way.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Set up an escape route that leads 15 to 20 feet away at a 45-degree angle from where the tree should fall. Clear that path before you start cutting\u2014no tripping over junk when things get real.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Wind and the lay of the land matter too. Take a second to think about all that before you pick your direction.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
What are the main steps for making the notch and back cut correctly?<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Always sharpen the blade<\/a> before you start. A sharp chain cuts cleaner and helps prevent kickback.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Check chain tension, bar oil, and safety features before you fire up the saw. The chain brake needs to work every single time. That\u2019s what stops the chain instantly if there\u2019s kickback.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Hold the saw with both hands. Stand on solid, cleared ground. Never cut above your shoulders or from an awkward position.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Add fuel only when the engine is cool and shut off.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Many places require permits to cut down trees\u2014even on your own land. Call your local permit office or building authority and ask what\u2019s needed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Some trees are protected species. You can\u2019t remove them without special permission, even if they\u2019re on your property. Local forestry departments keep lists of these trees and size limits.<\/p>\n\n\n\n If the tree is on a property line, you\u2019ll need your neighbor\u2019s okay. Trees on the boundary are usually shared.<\/p>\n\n\n\n If there are power lines nearby, call the utility company first. They\u2019ll often check the situation and sometimes remove the tree for you if it\u2019s near electrical lines.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Look at the tree and the area around it before you cut. This step helps you avoid accidents and makes sure the tree falls where you want.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Walk all the way around the tree. Look for cracks, holes, or dead branches that could break off.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Weak spots make the tree unpredictable.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Figure out which way the tree leans. Stand back and check from a few angles. Trees that lean forward, backward, or sideways need different cutting approaches.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Weight matters too. If one side has more branches, the tree will probably fall that way\u2014even if the trunk doesn\u2019t lean much.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Dead or dying trees need extra caution. They might be hollow inside. Tap the trunk with a mallet to check for hollow spots.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Clear the felling zone of anything that could get damaged or cause injury. Make sure this area is at least twice as wide as the tree is tall.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Overhead hazards<\/strong> like power lines<\/a> are the most dangerous. Always assume lines are live until you know for sure. Watch for dead branches, insect nests, and vines too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the ground<\/strong>, move or protect:<\/p>\n\n\n\n Pay attention to the ground itself. Slopes change how a tree falls. Wet soil can make roots give way suddenly. If you\u2019re working on a slope, it\u2019s harder and more tiring.<\/p>\n\n\n\n If there\u2019s poison ivy on the trunk, wear extra protection. Mark old wells, pipes, or hidden junk so you don\u2019t trip or hit them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Plan your escape route before you start. Most felling accidents happen right as the tree begins to move\u2014and usually within just a few feet of the stump.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Angle your escape path about 45 degrees away from the fall direction. Pick the side with better footing or more space.<\/p>\n\n\n\n To prep the escape route:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Make sure the path is totally clear before you cut. If the ground\u2019s icy, muddy, or sketchy, give yourself extra time. Practice walking the route to spot any issues you might have missed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n O three main cuts<\/a> work together to guide the tree\u2019s fall. The notch cut<\/a> points the tree, the back cut<\/a> releases it, and felling wedges<\/a> help if you need more control.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The notch decides which way the tree falls. Cut the notch on the side facing where you want it to land.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Set the notch at a comfortable height, usually between your waist and shoulders. That makes it easier to work safely. Cut about a third of the way through the trunk.<\/p>\n\n\n\n There are two main notch styles:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n The open-face notch gives you more control. It keeps the hinge<\/a> working longer as the tree falls. Point the notch right at your target spot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The notch has two cuts that need to meet just right. The top cut angles down at 45 degrees (or steeper for open-face). The bottom cut goes straight in, horizontal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Make the angled cut first, then the horizontal cut. If you do it right, you\u2019ll pull out a wedge-shaped chunk in one piece.<\/p>\n\n\n\n If the wedge doesn\u2019t come out easily, your cuts aren\u2019t lined up and you\u2019ll need to adjust.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Felling wedges keep the tree from pinching your saw and help guide the fall.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Slip wedges into the back cut once it\u2019s deep enough to hold them. Plastic wedges are best\u2014they won\u2019t wreck your chain if you hit them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n How to use wedges:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n For bigger trees, use more than one wedge. Space them out along the back cut for even pressure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The back cut is what releases the tree. Make this cut on the side opposite the notch, about 2 inches higher than the notch\u2019s bottom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Leave a strip of wood between the back cut and the notch. That\u2019s your hinge\u2014it should be about 10% of the tree\u2019s diameter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Cut straight through, parallel to the bottom of the notch. Don\u2019t cut all the way through\u2014the hinge needs to stay intact.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Safety tips:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n When the tree starts to fall, shut off the saw and get out of there\u2014quickly but carefully.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Once the tree\u2019s down, you need to deal with the branches and trunk. A lot of injuries happen at this stage, mostly because of tension in the wood.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Start at the base and work your way to the top. This releases tension gradually. If you\u2019re on a slope, stand on the uphill side.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Branch removal steps:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Watch out for branches under tension. They can whip back when cut. For really big limbs, try offset cutting<\/a>: cut down about two-thirds, then make a second cut from underneath, one inch past the first.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Bucking<\/a> is cutting the trunk into smaller pieces. How you do this depends on the size and weight of each section.<\/p>\n\n\n\n For small trunks, just cut straight through from the top. For bigger pieces, use offset cuts<\/a>: cut two-thirds down from the top, then finish from underneath, offset by an inch. This keeps your saw from getting pinched.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Keep your chain sharp and tight. Use the chain brake when moving between cuts. Don\u2019t ever cut<\/a> with the tip of the bar\u2014it\u2019s a major kickback risk.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Stack cut wood somewhere dry and airy so it doesn\u2019t rot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Some trees are just too risky for DIY. If a tree leans toward a house, has lots of rot, or stands near power lines, it\u2019s time to call in a professional.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Several warning signs show when a tree removal job needs a pro. If a tree leans more than 15 degrees toward a building, driveway, or utility line, homeowners shouldn’t try to handle it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Power lines within 10 feet of a tree create real electrocution risks. Only licensed pros with the right gear should tackle those situations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Dead or diseased trees can act in unpredictable ways when you try to cut them down. Sometimes the wood just crumbles or splits, so you can’t control where it falls<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Trees with more than one trunk or big, heavy branches that hang over things are best left to experts. Strong winds, rain, or storms only make things more dangerous.<\/p>\n\n\n\n If weather’s bad, it’s smarter to wait. Trees taller than 15 feet or wider than a foot across usually need pro equipment and experience.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Big trees need special rigging and cranes most people don’t have. Arborists use ropes and pulleys to lower sections safely and protect what’s nearby.<\/p>\n\n\n\n If a tree has a hollow trunk, fungus, or big cracks, let an expert check it out before doing anything. These weak spots<\/a> make the tree’s behavior hard to predict.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Sometimes rot hides inside where you can’t see it. Pros know how to spot that.<\/p>\n\n\n\n When trees get tangled up with others or lean in weird ways, you have to take them down piece by piece from the top. This method, called sectional felling<\/a>, needs climbing gear<\/a> and real know-how.<\/p>\n\n\n\n If there’s a risk to people or property, paying for pro tree removal just makes sense.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Wear a helmet with a face shield to protect your head and face from falling branches<\/a> and flying debris. Ear protection keeps your hearing safe from the chainsaw’s noise.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Chainsaw chaps help guard your legs if the chain slips. Steel-toed boots shield your feet and help you keep your balance on rough ground.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Gloves give you better grip and keep your hands safe from splinters and cuts. Keep all this gear on from the first cut to the end of cleanup<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Look at the tree’s lean and how its weight is spread out. Pick a landing spot with no buildings, wires, or other trees in the way.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Set up an escape route that leads 15 to 20 feet away at a 45-degree angle from where the tree should fall. Clear that path before you start cutting\u2014no tripping over junk when things get real.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Wind and the lay of the land matter too. Take a second to think about all that before you pick your direction.<\/p>\n\n\n\nChecking for Permits and Legal Considerations<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Assessing the Tree and Planning the Felling Zone<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nEvaluating Tree Condition and Lean<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Identifying Hazards and Obstacles<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\n
Marking Escape Routes and Clear Paths<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\n
Making Cuts: Techniques for Controlled Felling<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nHow to Plan the Notch Cut<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\n
Cutting the Notch Properly<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Using Felling Wedges Effectively<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\n
Making the Back Cut and Felling Cut<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\n
Post-Felling Cleanup and Branch Removal<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Cutting and Removing Branches<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\n
Safe Limbing and Bucking Practices<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Troubleshooting and When to Call a Professional<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Recognizing Dangerous Situations<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Dealing With Large or Compromised Trees<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
FAQs<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
What safety gear should you wear before cutting down a tree?<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
How do you plan the fall direction and establish escape routes?<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
What are the main steps for making the notch and back cut correctly?<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n